Frequently Asked Questions
What areas do you cover?
Burgess Hill, Haywards Heath, Hassocks and the surrounding Mid Sussex villages – essentially a 7/8 mile radius around Burgess Hill. I come to you for all sessions. If you live well outside this area, I will not be able to help you – but if you are slightly outside it, feel free to drop me a line and ask if I can currently cover your area. Please note: I do not cover central Brighton & Hove, but I can sometimes cover the northern edges.
Here’s a rough map of the area I cover:
What type of training do you offer?
All training is one-to-one. It’s a structured, tailored process that involves an assessment, followed by a series of training sessions – see the Structure page for details. My methodology is a unique blend of (mostly) Concept Training and (some) behaviourism, taking the best of each and applying them within a science-based, welfare-first, positive-reinforcement framework.
Do you hold group classes?
No. While they can occasionally be very useful for puppy socialisation, if done well, there is no compelling evidence that traditional group classes with all their distractions actually teach dogs or their owners any skills which translate over the long-term to the real world. It also doesn’t particularly suit my training style, which is aimed at creating ‘owner-trainers’ – so I prefer to concentrate on effective one-to-one training that builds actual life skills, and works to solve complex issues – and that keeps working, long after the training course ends.
What if I need more sessions?
Concept Training is not something you do and then forget about – it’s an approach to your relationship with your dog that you adopt for life – which is part of the reason it is so successful. I’ll get you started on a solid foundation of understanding of your dog’s needs and drives, and help you grow your communication and relationship to benefit you both.
What is Concept Training?
Concept Training goes beyond ‘obedience’ or ‘behaviour’ training by changing your dog’s physiological response to events, and then teaching them real-world skills. It is the modern, science-based, positive-reinforcement way to train dogs. The most effective way to teach concepts is to play games which promote the growth of those skills, and then ‘shape’ and reinforce those skills as they grow, until they are second-nature to your dog. It’s also bags of fun for everyone!
Can your dogs ‘help’ mine?
No. I do not support the practice of using my own dog as a ’stooge’, as I do not believe it to be in either of the dogs’ best interests – and all of my training is welfare-first. If your dog needs practice being calm around other dogs – for instance, while undergoing training to help with ‘reactivity’ – then a) I am not prepared to put my own dog under that amount of stress, and b) this is usually better done with ’natural’ setups anyway (after a period of training concepts while not greeting other dogs).
Who is this type of training for?
This type of training is for curious, motivated people who want to help their dogs live calm, confident lives, and cope with everything that the human world throws at them. It’s for people who want to learn how to become ‘owner trainers’, and who are prepared to put in the time and the effort required to absorb the concepts, observe their dog’s behaviour, and apply the strategies and games we use in a consistent way. You are the student, not your dog! It also helps if you have a sense of humour, as I like everyone to have fun when training!
Who is this type of training not for?
This type of training is definitely not for people who want someone else to come and train their dog. It’s not for people who have no curiosity or interest in becoming ‘owner trainers’. It’s not for people with deeply-held assumptions and beliefs about the way that dogs should behave or be trained, or those who are uncomfortable having those assumptions and beliefs challenged. If any of the above wording has offended you, please look for another trainer. If you’re keen to learn how to be your dog’s best trainer, please get in touch.
How do I pay for training?
Payment for each stage (Assessment and Training) is due before I start working with you. I will send you an invoice with a link which you can use to pay either via your banking app on your phone, or by debit or credit card.
Structure & Pricing
(See the Structure page for more detail about each stage)
NB: I have an open, 'flat pricing' policy. The session price is the same, whatever we are working on - and I publish it clearly. Nor do I advertise 'course pricing', which often gives a false impression of the actual cost. Every dog - and every situation - is different.
My approach (making you the trainer) is wildly different to traditional 'dog training' - and it works, time and time again.
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⚠️ Important
❤️🩹 I only work with vaccinated dogs
(unless they are puppies awaiting their first vaccination)
🚭 I only work in non-smoking households
If any of the above is an issue for you, kindly look elsewhere for training
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